Calle 74 in Panama City

NEIGHBORHOOD

San Francisco in Panama City Is Coming into Its Own.

In a spread out city where walking is frowned upon, Calle 74 and its vicinity in Panama's San Francisco neighborhood is a bright spot.  This area is quickly becoming one of the most liveable parts of Panama City for its convenient shops, restaurants and places to exercise.

Bon Vivant

Open everyday from 7:00 a.m. to 8:30p.m. this is Panamá’s version of a Dean & Deluca meets Bar Jamón. If you don't have time to stay for a delicious lunch of pardina lentils with foie gras, grab a fresh baguette, some rillette de porc, manchego, and a bottle of wine, and you’re ready for a picnic at nearby Parque Omar.

Good times at Bon Vivant on calle 74 (Courtesay of Bon Vivant Facebook page).

Briga

Want to tune up your body with the latest moves drawn from yoga, free weights, pilates and boot camp? At Briga, you'll work off calories with a combination of cardio and strength training that's also a blast of a workout. Working with the cross fit principle, this is the hardest workout you ever enjoyed.

Barberia Real

Carwash, facials, haircut a shave and a beer? It’s all possible at this emporium that pampers the busy man.

Yoga Element

Get your flight crinks out at this vinyasa- and ashtanga-style yoga studio. Morning and evening classes every day except Sunday.

Strike a pose at Yoga Element (Courtesy of Yoga Element).

Los Años Locos

Power lunch with the city’s movers and shakers at this converted house specializing in Argentine-style grilled meats and fresh seafood.

Humo
The latest offer from chef Mario Castrellón has the town buzzing. If you can't get a table for dinner, lunchtime is just as good for enjoying lobster rolls, baby back ribs and specialty cocktails.

The dining room at Humo, for a hip take on BBQ (Courtesy of Humo Restaurant).

Miranda Bakery
Get your carb fix at this specialty pastry shop that makes the best pain au chocolat and éclairs in Panama.

Athanasiou
Watch expert bakers make bread in front of your eyes at the only branch of this greek bakery in Latin America, and feast on gourmet versions of spanakopita and four types of baklava.

Carb load at Athanasiou Bakery and Café (Courtesy of Athanasiou).

Vanille
If you miss Magnolia Bakery, this is your answer in Panama City. The requisite red velvet and chai tea are on the menu, but also try the rum cake. It's out of this world.

Neptuno
Get your scuba diving certificate at half the cost of what you'd pay in the U.S. at this scuba instruction pool and pro shop.

El Tambor de Oro
The owners converted a home into a Peruvian comfort food restaurant. You might need a Peruvian Spanish dictionary to decipher Cau Cau, Chaufa and Tacu Tacu, but nothing gets lost in translation in mouth watering, fresh seafood and satisfying stews.

Parque Omar
Run a 3.5 km lap while taking stock of Panama's varied residential architecture at this former country club turned public park.  Stop by one of two competing juice bars near the main entrance for a refreshing smoothie, or simply come check out one of many outdoor concerts at sundown throughout the year.

Visitors enjoying natural refreshments at Parque Omar.

D'Tapas
Enjoy classics like tortilla española and chorizo, or go for the black paella, one of the best in the city while sipping the delicious and potent white sangria.

Tantalizing small plates at D'Tapas. (Courtesy of D'Tapas Facebook Page).

LiBar
This outpost of the Caracas club keeps re-inventing itself. It draws the hip, the trendy, the bougie, the desperately seeking susans and the good time foggies that refuse to go gently into that good night.  They play an international mix of pop, raï, latin and techno, and it reminds me of New York's defunct Au Bar in a good way.

Dance the night away at LiBar (Courtesy of LiBar Facebook page).

Las Hadas at the Sheraton Panama Hotel
Anytime is a good time to have a snack, coffee, meal or drink at this 24 hour bakery/café. To top off a seco-fueled evening, order their famous sancocho, a traditional Panamanian soup that's a great way to combat an impending hangover.

Temptation awaits 24 hours a day at Las Hadas Bakery at the Sheraton (Courtesy of  Las Hadas).

We'll always have New York

New York City

Early October in New York was a transition from the carefree, warm, summer days to the crisp, busy days of fall. Spending some quality time with friends in Brooklyn and Manhattan, I was glad to experience some recently opened hotels and restaurants, as well as visiting some old standbys on both sides of the East River.

Hotel Americano

This hotel is the first State-side property from Grupo Habita based in Mexico.  Their aethetic is hip, modern and eclectic without forgetting their Mexican roots.  Enrique Norton takes the formalist lines of the indigenous Mexican architecture and creates inviting spaces in neutral palates.  The restaurant serves modern Mexican fare competently, and the terrace out back was the perfect setting to gather friends and celebrate my birthday. It's the perfect stop for a bite or a drink if you're gallery hopping in West Chelsea or need to take a load off after exploring the High Line.

A creative way to make an inviting lounge out of a back alley.

Enrique Norton's formalist modern aesthetic.

An ecstatic b-day boy.

GPH
With its Ian Schrager and Julian Schnabel pedigree, The Gramercy Park Hotel was a hit the moment it opened years ago. It was also the setting for my friend Lizzie's wedding this past October.  Its collection of Basquiats, Warhols and yes Schnabels, as well as an extremely attractive staff in the Green and Rose rooms, have made it retain its relevance and status as a great place to party.  It's still so sought after in fact, that the hotel lounges turn into private clubs after 10:00 p.m. Even hotel guests risk being denied entrance. The hotel also houses Danny Meyer's Maialino restaurant. They not only serve modern Italian dishes; the knowledgeable, friendly service is also emblematic of the Danny Meyer franchise.

The proud mother of the groom giving her speech at a wedding in the Gramercy Park Hotel.

Wyeth Hotel

Can Williamburg get any hipper? Apparently yes.  There's a slew of new places that didn't exist a year ago, and now gentrification is for real.  But is it for better? I think in the case of the Wyeth Hotel it is.  The double height ceilings, the Public School look and cool uniforms give this place its own distinct character.  The casual brasserie Raynaud, with its requisite retro furniture and antiqued tiles, tries to outMcNally Pastis.  I enjoyed a nice luxury burger, the wine list and ambiance. But, what Williamsburg experience wouldn't be complete if the attitude weren't as salty as the fries?

Fattoria

This restaurant-bar-pasticceria wasn't completely opened when I visited, and only served pastries, coffee and drinks at the time.  My friend Megan and I found ourselves having an awkward snack of cannolis and white wine.  The industrial chic space is smartly laid out and the effort the staff from Italy is putting forth looks promising.

Nomad Hotel

After falling in love with Jacques Garcia's watering holes in Paris, I couldn't wait to see this place.  I met up with my friend Caroline at the Library bar.  The drinks seemed reasonable and the ambiance did not disappoint.  The mad crowd trying to nab a table was typical of every trendy New York boite, and either part of the experience by design, or best left when the hype dies down.

Magnolia Bakery Upper West Side

Those pastry chefs with liberal arts degrees took their act uptown.  The same butter frosted cupcakes in their red velvet glory are available up here can be wolfed down on the spot or at the side room made to look like a countryside porch in the middle of Manhattan.

Il Buco Alimentari

I thought I had the ultimate roast pork sandwich at Porchetta.  I was wrong.  This spinoff of Il Buco, located steps from the original, serves the richest, crunchiest, juciest pork in a sandwich I've had.  It's so good, it's one of those signature dishes that can launch a destination restaurant on its own.

New Places to Check Out in Mexico City.

Researching the good life in the Capital of the Aztecs.

I am looking forward to exploring some of the places mentioned in the terrific article on Mexico City published in the September issue of GQ.

I've been to Pujol and the Zócalo already.  But, I'm looking forward to making it to Azúl Histórico restaurant, the nearby Downtown Hotel and the M.N. Roy lounge mentioned in the article:

CENTRO HISTÓRICO: Façade of the Downtown Hotel near the Zócalo in Mexico City.

Downtown
Isabel la Católica 30,
Colonia Centro
downtownmexico.com

M.N. Roy
Merida 186,
Col. Roma
mnroyclub.com


Can't wait.

wh
(à la Goop)

Out and About in Panama City.

Panama is having a Golden Age.

Residents, businesses and politicians are scrambling to catch up to the booming economy, and preparing for the 2014 inauguration of the Panama Canal's expansion.  Massive construction throughout the growing city create gridlock and chaos.  Here's how to escape the mess and have some fun.

COSMOPOLITA: Panama has grown rapidly in the past few years creating many new attractions for locals and visitors.

 

 

EAT

San Francisco

Segundo Muelle

Seafood specialties like jalea (fritto misto), cau cau (savory rice), chupe (chowder soup) and chaufa (fried rice) showcase the Peruvian gastronomic trend.

El Cangrejo

El Trapiche

Authentic Panamanian specialties like carimañola (yuca turnovers), hojaldre (fried bread), empanadas (corn turnovers), sancocho (chicken and ñame soup) make this charming little restaurant a popular destination.

Wine Bar

Good wine list at decent prices. Some of the best Italian food in Panama from the adjoining restaurant Pomodoro.

Panama Canal

Miraflores Visitors Center Restaurant

Watch giant container ships and cruises pass in front of the terrace while enjoying a plentiful buffet with mostly seafood-oriented dishes.

PASAJEROS: Ships pass in front of the restaurant terrace at Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal.

Casco Viejo

Las Clementinas

A charming colonial building restored to house a boutique hotel and an excellent restaurant reinterpreting Panamenian recipes like guacho (hearty seafood and coconut risotto).

Causeway Amador - Isla Flamengo

Ca.yu.co

Open air bar on the marina for cheap drinks and seafood bites such as calamari and fried fish.

NIGHTLIFE

Casco Viejo

Tantalo

A very popular rooftop bar. Get there before 9:30 p.m. to avoir a cover charge of $5.00.

Divino

Living room-like lounge with a good wine list and live jazz on weekends.

Bella Vista

Jaleo

A lively scene of twentysomethings eating tapas and other Spanish specialties. The white sangria is quite tasty.

Calle Uruguay

Manrey rooftop

Lounge around a lit pool while sipping cocktails while the DJ mixes electronica and pop.

NOCTURNO: The rooftop pool at Manrey Hotel is great for lounging to electronica.

Bella Vista - Federico Boyd

El Apartamento / El Sótano

Upstairs (El Apartamento) is an open lounge serving strong cocktails. Downstairs (El Sótano) is a small venue for live rock and rap acts.

CULTURE 

 

Casco Viejo

Golden Altar

The gold-leafing altar at this church was hidden from pirates in colonial times.

ALTAR DORADO: The Golden Altar is a national treasure.

 

Ancón

Cerro Ancón

View sloths, birds and amphibians as you climb Panama City's highest point. 

Causeway Amador

Museo de Biodiversidad

Frank Gehry's impending masterpiece celebrates the biodiversity found in the isthmus of Panama.  Viewings by appointment on Saturdays and Sundays at 1pm.

http://www.biomuseopanama.org/form/ven-y-conoce-el-biomuseo

Smithsonian Aquarium

This small outdoor aquarium is small but interesting: Sharks and tortoises sharing a pool,  Rare fish from both Atlantic and Pacific are gathered for scientific study.

http://www.stri.si.edu/english/visit_us/culebra/index.php

Panamá Viejo

Panamá Viejo Ruins

View the ruins left after Captain Morgan looted and burned the original Panama City settlement.
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/790/

BEACH

 

Punta Chame

Nitro

This extreme sports oriented hotel offers kite surfing, a wakeboarding lagoon and other water sports.  Or simply sip cocktails at the swim-up bar and feast of their grilled meats and pizza.

http://nitrocitypanama.com/rest.php

EXTREMO: People of all ages enjoy the extreme sports and relaxation offered at Nitro City Beach Resort.

 

 

Bijao

Sheraton Bijao

This all inclusive resort offers four pools and kilometers of beach for water sports such as pedal boats, catamarans and jet skis.

http://www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton/property/photos/index.html?propertyID=3693#photo_section_1Link

Isla Grande

Bananas

Enjoy Panama's Caribbean beaches at this small property with wooden bungalows and a small pool.

NATURE

Parque Soberanía

National Park

Appreciate the rainforest, waterfalls and wildlife while walking on the Camino de las Cruces trail which was used to transport gold from Peru to Spain before there was a Panama Canal.

Summit

Summit Zoo

View rare species like tapirs, anteaters, ocelots and jaguars indigenous to this region of the world.

El Valle de Antón

El Valle Mud Baths

A very rustic "spa" that includes hot springs and white and brown clay for do-it-yourself mud facials.

http://www.antonvalley.com/attractions/hot-springs/

LODOSO: Detox with natural mud at the Anton Valley Hot Springs.

Paris Hot Spots.

Paris Now.

Someone said, "Paris is always a good idea."  I couldn't agree more.  Here are some spots I'd check out if I were to go to Paris right now:

ROMANTIQUE: Trends come and go, but charm is available year-round in Paris.

 

Palais de Tokyo 

After a renovation, this mixed-use space is hosting Summer parties on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.
http://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fr/lifestyle/soirees-construction

Mini Palais

A delightful surprise, this is a modern restaurant housed in the Neo-Classical building of the Grand Palais. The cool space and seasonal menu make this place many things at once: salon de thé, trendy lounge, edgy restaurant, fashionista scene, after-work drinks, le fooding destination and even chic weekend brunch.  

http://minipalais.com/fr/

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

It might seem like an infomercial to some, but the Louis Vuitton + Marc Jacobs exhibit is inventive in its displays and thoughtful in the way it relates the genius of these two men.
http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/english-439/exhibitions/current-events

CREATIVITE: The Musée des Arts Décoratifs celebrates the shared genius of Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs.

 

 

Saut du Loup

After the exhibit at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, pop into the restaurant below.  The gorgeous gravel terrace with the Louvre in the distance is dotted with sleek café chairs.  Catch up with friends over a bottle of crisp white wine and light dishes from the seasonal menu.
http://www.lesautduloup.com/articles/2010/la-terrasse.php

OUVERT: A rare open space in Paris at the Saut du Loup.

 

Senderens

The Bar Le Passage at Senderens is a sign of changing conventions in the Paris restaurant scene. Alain Senderens relinquished the three Michelin stars of Lucas Carton in 2005 to transform this space and create what he calls a "freer" experience. I would choose the bar because it offers similar fare and there's no reservation needed.
http://www.senderens.fr/la-table-senderens/carte-et-menus/#

Cité de la Mode

This mixed-used space on the Seine seems like the next logical step for the city that gave birth to great interpretations of the concept such as the Louvre (yes!), the Centre Pompidou and the Institut du Monde Arabe. Museum, fashion show venue and yes, bars.
http://www.paris-docks-en-seine.fr/bars-restaurants.html?lang=fr

Blame It on Rio.

Here are some of my favorite spots in Rio de Janeiro. 

With the World Cup in 2014 and the Summer Olympics in 2016, this old standby is new again with culture, cuisine and nightlife.

TOP: The boys from Ipanema play "futevolei," a combination of volleyball and soccer. ABOVE: Not everyone is in speedos and thongs on the famous Ipanema sidewalk by Roberto Burle Marx.

 

EAT

Ipanema

Gero

Northern Italian restaurant. Esthetes will appreciate the design.

Forneria San Sebastião

Simple pasta dishes and brick oven pizzas

ABOVE: The delicious cheeseburger in pizza dough at Forneria San Sebastião.

Center

Amarelinho

near Cinelandia
Classic brazilian dishes and outdoor terrace.

TOP: Amarelinho is yellow inside and out. ABOVE: Feijoada, classic black bean and pork stew, for one at Amarelinho.

 

Confitaria Colombo

A grande Austrian-style café

ABOVE: Breakfast, lunch or snack-time, it's always a good time for the grande Confitaria Colombo.

Gávea

00 (zero-zero)

Dinner and dancing in a fun indoors outdoors club

GOING OUT

Lapa

Circo Voador
Outdoor venue for cool samba/funk  acts.

...Lapa anywhere for that matter.

TOP: Artists like Seu Jorge got their start at Circo Voador,  Rio's answer to CBGB. ABOVE: Lapa's main street has a handful fun, live samba venues like Sacrilegio.

CULTURE

Center

Livraria Travessa

Housed in a colonial era buliding, it's not just great for picking up Paulo Coelho's latest book, they also sell music, DVDs and local magazines.

All Play, No Work, in São Paulo

Visiting São Paulo using the Jardim neighborhood as a base.

Many people recommend venturing outside the Jardim district when visiting São Paulo.  For the uninitiated, however, this neighborhood is the safest and most convenient, especially if you find yourself in "Sampa" (as locals call São Paulo) for business.  Here's what to do do in, near and beyond Jardim.

In Jardim

EAT

Dalva e Dito is the more casual restaurant by Alex Attala who also owns DOM, which was voted one of the top 50 restaurants in the world.

http://www.dalvaedito.com.br/

Oscar Café is a great café/lunch/aperitif place on Oscar Freire.

http://www.oscarcafe.com.br/

YUM:   Chicken stew and couscous, comfort food at Oscar Café.

Na Cozinha is a cute bistro that reinterprets traditional Brazilian dishes like moqueca and feijoada with a modern twist.

http://www.nacozinharestaurante.com.br/

Estaçao SP Design café is a great place for lunch Mon.-Sat. where they serve home made cooking and charge by the kilo.

http://www.restaurantejardins.com.br/

Padaria Benjamin Abrão is a bakery/café that’s one of the best in Sampa in a town famous for its bakeries.  The outside looks like a jewelry store, but their jewels are their fresh croissants, ham and cheese pockets, pão de queijo, and desserts. 

http://www.gourmetviajante.com.br/restaurantes/cafedamanha/Padaria+Benjamin+Abrah%C3%A3o+Jardim+Paulista,119

CHEAT: Padaria Benjamin Abrahão is a den of (carb) sin.

ATTRACTIONS

There’s a cute, but old-looking park nearby called Trianon.  I say it’s old because the trees are overgrown and actually dusty looking.  But, it’s a nice place to walk and appreciate some greenery away from the bustle of Avenida Paulista.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotos-g303631-d532237-w2-Parque_Trianon-Sao_Paulo_State_of_Sao_Paulo.html#18473606

Nearby, it the architecturally significant MASP, one of Brazil's major art museums and a big attraction in São Paulo:

http://masp.art.br/masp2010/

Outside Jardins

EAT

Forneria San Paulo is the sister restaurant in SP to my favorite restaurant in Rio.  Great Northern Italian food, superb wood-burning oven pizzas and a burger in cooked pizza dough.

http://www.forneria.com.br/san-paolo-galeria.php

 

ATTRACTIONS

Iberapuera Park is the city’s answer to Central Park.  It has long running trails, pretty lakes, the Modern Art museum, the Afro-Brazilian museum and a concert hall. 

http://www.mam.org.br/ 

Check out the renovations to the Luz train station district.  A former meeting point for crack addicts (called crackolandia), the Projeto Nova Luz is turning the station and its surrounding area into a mixed-used district like the renovation at Grand Central. Very Rockwell.

http://www.novaluzsp.com.br/mural.asp

NIGHTLIFE

For a casual gathering with friends when you just want to people watch and have a nosh, the botecos or pubs serving beers at the intersection on Rua Aspicuelta and Rua Mourato Coelho in Vila Madalena are the best bet. This pedestrian-friendly area is safe to bar hop at night.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/05/04/travel/04surfacing.html

 

The Rooftop at the Unique Hotel has a great view of São Paulo’s long skyline and a great international scene. 

http://www.hotelunique.com.br/index.php

WOW: The unbeatable view from the rooftop bar at the Unique Hotel.

Baixa Augusta is great for live music and going out in a group.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/04/05/travel/05surfacing.html